Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.

Summary

This quote highlights the profound personal connection the speaker has with surfing. They describe how the act of surfing brings them a sense of tranquility and inner peace, akin to the state of Zen. The speaker's appreciation for the ocean's magnificence and serenity is emphasized, suggesting that when they ride a wave, they become fully immersed in the experience, momentarily escaping from the distractions and pressures of the outside world. Surfing serves as a therapeutic activity that allows the speaker to disconnect and find solace in this awe-inspiring natural environment.